I want to be a frequent reader, I really do. But my interests are a bit niche as is the tone of writing that keeps me interested long enough to finish a book within 6 months, a year, or ever. I always bring a book (the paper kind, old school) on vacation but try not to choose anything too heavy or heady. I’ve been known to enjoy a good romance or mild thriller. Because I enjoy any opportunity to endorse my friends, Willow Aster is my go-to for steamy vacation reads. She has a pretty extensive catalog so I never struggle with that genre, I just pick up one of hers. This reminds me I need more vacations. Other types of fiction are harder for me to decide, so I’m always happy with a recommendation from an employee at any indie bookstore. 
At home though, maybe because my work-mode doesn’t have an off switch, I lean toward non-fiction on topics like fashion, memoirs, biographies, business, politics, etc. I was (still am) in the middle of ‘The Death and Life of Great American Cities’ by Jane Jacob’s, published in 1961 , a very interesting and pertinent topic but also brutally dense with studies about urban development, mid-century lingo, and written long before social media was a gleam in Zuck’s eye. Surprisingly, much of it still applies, I suppose because humans be human. If PBS documentaries are more your jam, I suggest '10 Towns That Changed America', ya get the gist.
Given how quickly I’d read American Flannel (my first break from ‘American Cities’), I assumed I was still in the mood for that kind of reading, so up to my lofty little book nook I went to pick out my next paperback. There is quite a stack that I haven’t read (gotta keep those indie bookstores in biz, ya know). But for whatever reason, one I had read before but didn’t remember much caught my eye (probably because it’s warped and didn’t lay nicely with the other books). Wardrobe Crisis is always on suggested reading lists for fashion enthusiasts. Published in 2016, the same year I opened the shop, I was curious enough if it would hold up in the post-pandemic era that I figured what the heck read it again.
I pulled it off the shelf and noticed its obvious water damage. Flipped thru the pages to find a boarding pass from Manila, Philippines to Tokyo/Narita, Japan dated Wednesday, September 19, 2018, as well as a ‘Bistro Dining’ flight menu for the 2nd leg of the trip, Tokyo to Detroit, I think it was. I don’t remember what I ordered but I remember it didn’t sit well which made a miserable flight. Taking that trip was one of the best things I’ve ever done in my life. Not entirely unrelated, but the set up to this book report is already taking far too long. Enough about my reading habits and travel history.
What I appreciate most about this book is author Clare Press has a legit and extensive resume writing about and participating in the fashion industry. She seems to like clothes. Nothing irritates me more than folks with big opinions about fashion who view it as only a necessary function without recognizing its primal ties to self expression. And I must add, its relation to shops like mine that enhance community - wouldn’t be here without fashion.
Clare’s appreciation for the art and craft of fashion pairs well with her curiosity in how to make our beloved art form better for people and planet and doesn’t forget to include our furry friends. Chapter 15 is dedicated to silk worms - the 'peace' kind versus the boiled kind. I got first-hand knowledge about this on the afore-mentioned Philippines trip. Let the worms live, dammit!
It’s not black and white, all good or all bad, but instead highlights the trying. This is where I live. Many specific designers and brands are mentioned throughout this book and it’s interesting to identify who is still operating less than a decade later. The OG brand People Tree, for example, gets a brief mention for its pioneering ethical supply chain but fell on hard times after Covid and it’s still unclear if they will ever make a comeback. Even the gold standard of brands fall short sometimes and I’m realistically inclined to think all do eventually.
In the forward, she briefly nods to New Zealand brand Kowtow for their 100% organic cotton line and they seem to be going strong and are accessible enough for me to carry them in the shop for the past couple of seasons. Yay!
Designers like Stella McCartney and brands like G-Star Denim (one of Pharrell's many collabs) get attention for their efforts and celebrity clout. This is not my world, but I certainly appreciate folks with big visibility doing their part of drawing attention to better practices in fashion.
More than anything, I love how Clare Press shares the stories of the small creators, innovators, doers. A local seamstress (when all the skirts at all the shops are just plain wrong, Clare has them made). The woman who weaves dog hair. The wedding dress designer who uses only peace silk. The family of sheep herders committed to non-mulesing their flock. Small, often singular or family operations are where you’ll find the good stuff. Go figure.
I think if this book had been written post 2020 there might be more about supply chain disruption, the increased erosion to small retailers and ethical brands, and the rise of ultra fast fashion like Temu and SHEIN. Maybe. But maybe it holds up because of the focus on timeless personality and skill that works (or works better) instead of solely finger-pointing at the bad actors.
We can diverge on a few ideas like pet fashion because my Boston Terrier needs a parka or fleece for 3 out of 4 Minnesota seasons, though even he doth protest. And yes, our late ring barer, Sabrina the teacup poodle, donned a pink tutu for our big day in 2006 - zero regrets. We might occasionally disagree on the battles worth fighting or even mentioning, but Wardrobe Crisis holds up for me. I ordered a few copies for the shop that you can purchase here if you are inclined. You can find links to the author's other books and podcast on her site.